St. Martin – BVI – corona

Etter å ha kommet til St Martin 25.2 reiste de andre hjem, og nytt besøk booket inn på Spirella. Målet var å besøke noen av øyene i BVI før Yngve m/ gjester – og deretter Øivind – igjen kom tilbake for å bruke båten ca en mnd. før hjemreisen skulle starte. Planer endres av ulike årsaker, og hva som ble resultatet leser du nederst i innlegget.

Ups. Spirella er pr dd coronafast. Utfordringer gir ofte muligheter

Typisk med reiseblogger er vel at det blir færre innlegg etter hvert som tiden går, i alle fall for amatører som oss – som er på en «utvidet ferie» hvor båten bytter hele og/eller deler av mannskap og skipper relativt ofte. For som antydet før – hvem som helst kan gjennomføre en slik reise – dette er ingen ekstremtur – langt i fra. Jeg har her uten alt for mye dill og bruk av tid forsøkt å gjengi mine subjektive inntrykk av hva som er opplevd den siste perioden. Dersom man ønsker å lese en 100% faktadokumentar om området, så hopp over denne bloggen. Men om noen blir inspirerte til å ta en lavterskel tur ut fra det vi har opplevd, feks som et prosjekt mellom flere, så er det nettopp målet.

Jeg har tegnet inn noen av stedene som er besøkt i Karibien i kartet under, og hovedstrekkene – helt fra Norge. Flere steder er besøkt gjentatte ganger, og ruten sørover fra Martinique er seilt fire-fem ganger ila de siste månedene. De røde merkene med svarte streker er steder som er presentert før, seilt i desember og etter jul/nyttår. De mørke grønne merkene er de stedene som ble seilt til deretter, med et seilivrig mannskap. Så ble båten hengene over en måned rundt og sørover fra Martinique i påvente gjester, befaring og senere rep. av roret. Deretter gikk turen nordover, relativt raskt, uten mange stopp som vises med de lyse grønne merkene. Den siste ruten, som jeg tok fram til 10.3, er vist med gule merker. Det vil si at vi ikke har opplevd områdene nordover like mye som de sørover, så det håper vi at vi skal klare senere.

De båtene man før så ofte, er nå spredt rundt omkring i hele regionen. Vi ser færre kjente båter. Å farte rundt i dette farvannet er spennende, men som alt annet blir det fort en vane. I de fleste skildringene jeg har lest gjennom mange år kommer det fram at mange lengter bittelitt hjem ut på vinteren, man kan faktisk få nok av paradis også. Vi er derfor heldig som har delt bruken av båten. Å ha noen uker her er perfekt. Å ha det flere ganger over en periode er absolutt en metode å anbefale.

Øyene nordover skiller seg fra øyene sør for Martinique. Vi har ikke utforsket mange nok områder lenge nok til å fortelle særlig mye om forskjellene, men har et generelt inntrykk. Det er fattigere lengre sør, men på mange måter mer sjarmerende. De stormer ut for å hjelpe til med bøye, de selger rundt båten – ja det er litt slitsomt – men også artig. På Martinique og nordover må man klare seg selv, det er «mer organisert» og mer likt – om det kan sies – med det vi er vant til. Det handler om å tilpasse seg, da blir alt bra.

Vi har ikke opplevd noen uheldige situasjoner, men det har i det siste blitt rapportert økt antall hendelser sørover, men ran. Det er kjent at det visstnok er større risiko for kriminalitet i sør, men det er her som alltid i verden – man må ta nødvendige hensyn og forehåndsregler.

Der er dyrt i Karibien, og vår opplevelse er at Martinique er det stedet hvor vi fikk mest ut av pengene. I sør er det dyrt for lite. I nord er det bare dyrt, så det handler om å planlegge. Dagens kurs gjør det ekstra ille for oss nordmenn. Alt med båt koster i utgangspunktet mer enn hjemme, så sørg for å ha det dere trenger før man drar fra Norge.

St Martin, som mange mener skal skriver annerledes, er en typisk Cruise destinasjon med mange amerikanere. Det er et fint knutepunkt, men vil man opplever mer enn mye folk og charterturister, så dra herfra. Anegada på BVI er en perle, i motsetning til Tortola som skuffet med mindre imøtekommende folk og lite å vise fram – med unntak av Cane Bay. Anguilla opplevde vi også som et fint sted, som anbefales. Virgin Gorda med The Bath var annerledes, men immigrasjon på BVI var en langdryg prosess. De virket ikke som de satt pris på å få turister, og det som det medfører av inntekter. Orkanen Irma i 2017 har satt disse områdene lang tilbake, den sterkeste orkanen som noen gang er målt i dette området. Båter ligger henslengt og ødelagt overalt på Tortola, og på St Martin, særlig på fransk side. Det gjør sikkert noe med befolkningen, for det virker ikke som de har fått mye internasjonal støtte til gjenoppbygging, uten at vi kan bekrefte det. Bilder fra ulike steder:

Så hva blir neste trekk på dette prosjektet? Vel, det blir i alle fall ikke som skissert plan. Og det trodde vi heller ikke ved start. Men at det skulle bli så stort avvik var vi ikke forberedt på. Når jeg reiste hjem fra fra Tortola BVI 10.3 var det allerede varsler ift corona, lite visste vi ved ankomst Oslo at utviklingen hadde kommet så langt, og at det straks skulle blir verre. Yngve dro bort rett etterpå, og han fant raskt ut at gjestene, som hadde billetter dagen etter via USA, ikke kunne komme. Etter ett døgn dro han derfor hjem, og ca en uke senere ble innreisen til Tortola stengt. Båten ligger på en fin bøye med oppsyn i en bukt med mange andre båter. Vi har derfor besluttet en ny sesong i Karibien, og har bestilt opplag på Grenada. Så da gjenstår «kun» å få Spirella transportert sørover de ca 500nm (nautiske mil) til Spice Island Marina, hvor båten blir sikret mot orkaner, før vi starter neste sesong i desember. Så ikke galt for noe, ny sesong i Karibien er under forberedelser. Vi anser oss som heldige, mange av våre medseilere denne sesongen ligger rundt omkring og venter på hva de kan gjøre, og flere har endret sine hjemreiser. Vi er tross alt trygt hjemme, og båten er pt bra og sikkert fortøyd. Mer info kommer når vårt neste trekk i prosjektet er avklart. Vi ser uansett fram til en morsom fortsettelse, under forutsetning at coronaproblemet løser seg innen de neste ukjente antall måneder. Atle/

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